7: Colours and Contrasts

Before we head off to Tiznit, Nick decides to take Millie on a walk - or rather, some fairly serious rock climbing!

Known as 'The Surfboard' - a huge granite rock platform sticks horizontally out into thin air. At about 200 metres high - this is definitely not something for the faint-hearted!

Some of the rocks in this area have names - there is the Golden Lion and the Rabbits.

We have really liked Tafraoute, a place where we could easily have lingered. We have one more visit to make before we bid this lovely area farewell - the famous Painted Rocks. These are a little way out of Tafraoute - about 6 km up an off-road track which Lionel manages with aplomb.

The Painted Rocks are quite something; they are the work of Belgian artist Jean Vérame who in 1984 and with the help of the local fire service and 18 tons of paint, painted these rocks blue, red, pink, yellow and black in memory of his late wife. The rocks are given a fresh coat of paint every so often and they are certainly a landmark.

Feelings are mixed about this artwork, some find it very moving and others are firmly in the 'eyesore' camp. We enjoy seeing them. There are several different outcrops of these huge painted rocks and the sheer size of the undertaking is certainly impressive - but art? We aren't so sure, but maybe we're just Philistines.

The route to Tiznit involves Lionel in a bit of paddling - but thankfully nothing as dramatic as Rocky's experience in Iceland!

We've visited Tiznit before, it's scruffy and dirty and makes no real concessions to tourists - but it's full of personality - we love it!

When we arrive the weather is a bit grim, but we can't complain, it's the first real rain we've had to contend with and things are very much worse elsewhere.

We're hearing reports of very serious floods in the north of Morocco. We understand that 110,000 hectares of agricultural land has been submerged, roads washed away and many bridges have collapsed.

Over 188,000 people have been evacuated or displaced. The Moroccan government has declared four areas 'disaster areas' and has allocated the equivalent of about £240 million in aid.

This doesn't seem to have been reported in the UK news at all but is absolutely catastrophic for a country that is still trying to recover from the massive earthquake in 2023.

We call in to see a couple of people we met when we were last here.

Moulay is still going strong with his shop selling jewellery crafted on the premises along with other fascinating artefacts.

We are dismayed when we turn up at the silver market to see Muhammad, only to find the building closed for refurbishment and no sign of the traders. Tiznit is famed for its silver jewellery - for centuries skilled craftsmen have been producing beautiful pieces made to traditional Amazigh designs.

Nick does spot a really nice puzzle ring - made up of six linked rings, woe betide him if he takes it apart, he'll never get it back together!

Tiznit is also famed for a trade more modern than silversmithing but still very skilled - bespoke motorhome upholstery!

We need some storage pockets for Rocky of a particular size - no problem. We place the order and ask if we should come back tomorrow to collect the items, the chap looks amazed at our stupidity as he informs us it will take ten minutes! We sit and watch him work - a true master.

The sun finally makes an appearance and we enjoy wandering around the town.

We're glad we came back.

We have a lovely few days ahead - our elder daughter Juliet, is coming out to meet us with her boyfriend Kash. They are having a few days in the trendy surfing destination, Taghazout and surfing is on the menu!

This is very much a young person's place but they let us slip through the net and we enjoy a drink and catch up in a beachside bar.

Kash has never surfed before, but just a couple lessons later, it turns out he's a natural!

He and Juliet had a great time.

Surfing lessons are big business here and all the surfers in their black wetsuits look a bit like a colony of seals!

Just a few miles north of Taghazout is a small village called Aghroud. Our friend Bernd has told us that this place is a must-see with its vibrantly painted houses. It's a riot of colour - very uplifting.

The next day the four of us, along with Mille and Pip pile into Lionel and head off to the mountains. We're going to explore Paradise Valley - a river valley with lovely walks and many natural pools - ideal for a dip if you're so inclined.

It is a lovely place and Nick's clever photography belies the fact that it's pretty busy with day-trippers from Agadir. It would be a lie to say this doesn't detract from the natural beauty and serenity of the place but it is a great day out, we all enjoy it and the dogs make the most of the swimming opportunities.

Sadly, we bid Juliet and Kash farewell as they head for home.... and we head back to the bar to ponder on the next leg of our trip. We need to work out how we'll avoid the damaged roads further north - cheers!