8: A Brush With The Law!

The road out of Taghazout hugs the coastline and not long into our journey we come across an area of sand dunes. Intrigued, we stop to take a look. The area is home to the Timlalin Dunes - a 900 ha area which has been designated a Site of Biological and Ecological Interest for its flora and fauna. While there, we're treated to a closeup sighting of the critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis which is all but extinct everywhere but here and the Souss Massa National Park.

The area has sadly become a bit of a honeypot for locals and consequently the numbers of quad bikes and motorbikes whizzing about the dunes rather spoils the atmosphere and doesn't seem to fit with the area's billing as a haven for nature but what do we know?

Quite dramatically, we leave the arid and rocky landscapes that we have enjoyed for many weeks and we enter the southernmost area where heavy rain has been experienced for the first time in seven years. Further north the rains have caused catastrophic damage but here, the countryside has burst into life. There is lush green vegetation and brightly coloured wild flowers everywhere. The backdrop of the snow covered High Atlas Mountains makes for a truly spectacular sight.

We're very much looking forward to visiting Essaouira but unlike everywhere else in Morocco, motorhomes are not welcome here....

......so we have to stay in one of the two campsites located about 20 minutes drive from the city.

This actually works out perfectly as the site is really lovely - quiet and verdant with just the sound of birdsong as our backing track. The road to the campsite is dreadful, heavily corrugated and full of deep potholes, it's a wonder Lionel isn't reduced to matchsticks by the shaking about he gets!

Essaouira, formerly known as Mogador, certainly lives up to expectations, it is the most beautiful Moroccan city we have visited. It is known as the 'Windy City of Africa' because the alizee or taros (coastal winds) are often very strong here - there is certainly a stiff, bur warm breeze blowing when we visit.

Aside from the wind, the city is known for the 18th century architecture. A unique blend of European military engineering and traditional Moroccan design. Impressive ramparts surround its ancient medina as well as its working fishing port where literally hundreds of blue fishing boats are moored.

You can buy fish at the port and have it cooked for you to eat straight away - food doesn't come fresher than that!

The European influence on this city is very apparent, there are many cafes and restaurants where it's possible to while away an hour or two people-watching.

The Medina is a UNESCO Wold Heritage Site and unlike the chaotic labyrinths of other Moroccan cities, Essaouira's Medina is laid out on a grid, reflecting its planned, colonial-era foundation. This is undoubtedly a tourist hotspot but the medina manages to cater for locals and visitors without losing its character and there are still a vibrant souks selling all types of food....

...as well as the compulsory carpets!

Janette manages to find the Italian Millefiori beads she'd read about. Translated, Millefiori means 'thousand flowers'. They are intricate, handcrafted glass beads, originating from 15th century Venice. These were used centuries ago by European traders as a form of currency and were highly prized in Africa. In the 1960s - 70s the beads became iconic hippie fashion and became known as 'love beads'.

Janette gets chatting to a shopkeeper who is kind enough to let her look at a string of old beads although they are definitely out of her budget. They are truly beautiful.

As we wander the back streets of the medina we admire the ornate tiles and then we're stopped in our tracks. Above a rather scruffy doorway are exactly the same tiles, same design, same colour as were on the wall in Janettes childhood home, she is delighted!

A touch of shoe shopping follows and a pair of curly toes slippers made from goat and camel leather are procured. Nick decided he'd pass when the shop keeper enthusiastically suggested purchasing a matching pair!

By now, we've worked up an appetite....

We go to a very trendy restaurant that a friend has recommended and joy of joys we can get a cold beer! Thanks for the tip James!

Back at the campsite, we make a new friend - 9 year old Betsy - although the truth is that it's the dogs and not us who are the main draw! To our delight, she provides endless ball-throwing and dog walking services... as well as feeding them.

Betsy, her parents, 12 year old brother and 10 month old sister... and two Springer Spaniels are from the UK and are travelling full-time in a lovely old German fire engine. It's been lovingly restored and converted into an overland truck and loaded with bikes, surfboards and a motorbike! Quite a truck full!

On the road again towards Marrakesh and we've hardly set off before......

....we get our first speeding fine of the trip. We'd been feeling rather smug as we'd got away without any police-stops so far - but as they say 'pride comes before a fall'. We take our £15.00 fine on the chin and continue on our way to Marrakesh.

Le Realais de Marrakesh is perhaps the most famous campsite in Morocco, it's always a bit nail biting on the approach in case it's full but we time our arrival well and we're in!

It's a little way outside the city but it has everything - pool, restaurant, bar - and to Millie and Pip's horror, even dedicated dog washing facilities!

The weather is wonderful - topping 27 - 28 degrees, so we decide to spend 4 or 5 days lolling about and exploring the city - find out next time how we get on!